Savannah

Savannah is all about the cemeteries. I started this morning with a visit to the Colonial Park Cemetery in the Historic District of Savannah. It is the oldest municipal cemetery in Savannah.

Given that it was so cold and windy I had to dip back into my winter supplies for a down, hat and gloves, I decided an indoor activity was next on the agenda. The American Prohibition Museum fit the bill. This museum was very well done. Each room represented a different phase of prohibition , including the years just prior to the 18th amendment, and the years after the 21st amendment. Attendants, dressed in period costumes, were available for questions. I found Anysia and Rodney knowledgeable and personable.

I learned quite a bit from this museum. For example, exceptions to the ban were made for “medicinal” and religious requirements. Sound familiar? Apparently the growth of Walgreens Drugstore (from a single store in 1901 to 525 by the end of prohibition) was largely due to their filling prescriptions for medicinal liquor. Coca Cola and Welch’s grape juice were advertised as temperance beverages and enjoyed substantial growth during that time. Synagogues and Jewish families could obtain a limited amount of sacramental wine. Apparently the number of ordained Rabbis spiked during prohibition, some with names like Rabbi O’Leary and Rabbi McDonough.

Unsurprisingly, prohibition did not stop the production, sale or consumption of alcohol, it just drove it underground. Sound familiar? These activities were controlled by organized crime (sound familiar) and led to the infamous Valentine’s Day massacre, which was basically Al Capone defending his monopoly.

I was unaware that the women’s suffrage moment had it roots in prohibition. At least at the beginning, women were attempting to limit their husbands’ over-consumption of alcohol and thought that supporting prohibition could provide a solution. One need only look to the roaring 20’s that followed prohibition to see that many women changed their minds.

I was also unaware that the beginnings of NASCAR were in cars that were souped up to be able to outrun law enforcement.

Prohibition also created some of the judicial and legal precedents that remain today. Our basic penal system had to be greatly expanded to accommodate all of the convictions. But when prisons became over crowded, plea bargains and other legal maneuvers were invented to reduce the prison population. Sound familiar?

Income tax was created to replace the lost revenue due to reduction of sales tax on liquor. Indeed, the Great Depression was one of the motivations for repealing prohibition.

Finally, the U.S. was and remains the only country to impose a blanket ban on all alcohol.

I needed a break after learning all about prohibition, and walked over to the Foxy Loxy Cafe . This is a Savannah institution. It is located in an old house ad mixes coffee and baked goods with Tex-Mex offerings. I took the stairs up to the second floor balcony, where I enjoyed my coffee with a side of people watching down on the street.

On my way to my next stop, I passed by a Church that was just concluding Easter Services. I was taking photos of the crowd in front of the Church from across the street when one of the women invited me to come inside to have a look at the interior of the church. She sprinkled some Holy Water on me, certainly new experience for me. I figured it couldn’t hurt.

From there I visited the other cemetery within the city limits of Savannah, the Laurel Grove cemetery . Many of the native Laurel Oak trees still remain to shade the graves I this cemetery. 

Finally, I walked down River Street , the main tourist street adjacent to the river, on my way to The Olde Pink House for a drink and a bite. I had been here some years ago when we were in Savannah for work. I did not recollect that it was so difficult to get in. Even the bar immediately filled up at 5 PM when they opened and forget a dinner table. I, along with some new friends I met in line, were lucky to snag some of the last seats in a conversation area. I ended up sharing dinner conversation with Chris and Heidi from WA State, Jay (from Milwaukee) and Deb (local) and Layla and Jason (also local). I always enjoy these encounters.

Tomorrow I will explore some of the areas outside the immediate city of Savannah.