San Diego to Indio

I had a sunny day for my drive East, from San Diego to Indio. I cut through Anza-Borrego Desert State Park , then down around the bottom of the Salton Sea so I could stop at Bombay Beach . While I love Anza-Borrego, I chose not to stop on this trip, favoring the weird and unusual over the majestic and beautiful.

Bombay beach has been described as “A Post-apocalyptic Nightmare on the Salton Sea.” Basically it is a populated ghost town. Now a toxic wasteland and environmental disaster, it was once a thriving resort town in the 50s and 60s that was even frequented by celebrities.

The sea was formed in 1905 when a canal overflowed from the Colorado River, was diverted, and filled the dry lake bed. Once the canal was repaired, the sea received no additional river water, only runoff from the nearby farms. Runoff replete with chemicals that, combined with ancient salt deposits, raised the salinity of the sea.

In the 20s Bombay beach was approved for use in agriculture, attracting residents and businesses. Property values skyrocket in the 50s thanks to recreational activities such as fishing, boating, water skiing, hotels, and even a yacht club. Ultimately, it was the farming that spelled the death knell for Bombay Beach. Irrigation draining into the lake continued to increase the levels of salt and pesticides, causing toxic algae blooms. It could no longer support wildlife, killing birds and even leading to an outbreak of botulism. In 1986 fishing was banned due to the toxicity levels. It’s now the largest lake in California, with over 70 miles of shoreline, and the water is 50% saltier than the Pacific Ocean.

Additional information about the Salton Sea can be found here and here and here . And more commentary about Bombay beach can be found here and here .

 However, out of the disaster, a bizarre art mecca of sorts was born. Perhaps that speaks to human nature - attempting to beautify ones surroundings even in the most sordid circumstances. A number of sculptures exist on the shore of the lake. Also present were a large number of what appeared to be hay bales, arranged in a pattern of rows. An installation perhaps, one that must have required a huge amount of work. I could not fine any information on it. While admiring the art, I met David, Alexa, and their kitten, Toe, who they were acclimatizing to travel and training to walk on a leash. They were up for the day from L.A., where David studies design.

I then headed North to Indio, which is the gateway to Joshua Tree National Park .