Portland environs

North Portland offers a vibrant downtown waterfront scene with boutique shops and high-end gustatory experiences. South Portland and the cape beyond are the place to find lighthouses and dramatic coastal scenery. A short bridge connects the two. For once, the day was beautiful - mild temperatures, low humidity, clear skies.

My first stop was Bug Light lighthouse , so-named for its diminutive stature. Next was Spring Point Ledge Lighthouse. From there, I continued around the cape to Willard Beach . Because dogs are allowed unleashed in the mornings, this turned out to be a magnet for the dog-owning crowd; also Next, an enterprising young girl was selling dog treats at the entrance, the proceeds to go to an animal shelter. On the cliff above the beach is fisherman’s point , so-called because a couple of abandoned cottages sit on the bluff.

My next stop was the main tourist attraction, Fort Williams Park . This park houses the Portland Head Light , commissioned by George Washington. Ram Island Ledge Light Station can be seen about 15 miles off the coast. Tony oriented me and explained some of the history of the region. Many small islands sit further off the coast; had I more time, they would be fun to visit. I met Jean and Joel while walking the bluff. They were very interested in my journey and had a number of tips, including Scales restaurant in town for dinner and some ideas around Acadia National Park.

Next, I was aiming for a pair of lighthouses on Cape Elizabeth, the East and West towers. My GPS took me to Two Lights State Park , which turned out to be a fortuitous error. Even at midday, this was one of the most magical stretches of coastline I have encountered, certainly on my journey up the Eastern Seaboard. I may try to return later in the day tomorrow.

After an afternoon break to rest and download, I walked into town seeking a lobster dinner. Although most of the time I am eating out of my plug-in cooler, I also make a point to sample the cuisine from each region. Of course, in Maine, it is all about lobster. Multiple sources had recommended Scales as the best restaurant in town, both for lobster and other seafood. I had been warned that it was extremely popular and that I would need a reservation. I decided to employ my usual strategy of walking in and requesting a bar seat. This has only failed me once, at a small boutique restaurant in Savannah.

Scales opens for dinner only at 4:30. When I arrived at 4:45 I could see the place was already packed, both tables and bar. The host did find me a seat, but I later understood it was literally the last available seat. Apparently reservations are usually required even for bar seats at this very popular venue. I sat next to John and it turned out that the available seat was likely due to the fact that he was on his own this evening (his wife was out of town) and, since he was a regular, he scored a seat. But that left a single for me. This was very lucky and I had a great evening. I had an extended and interesting conversation with John, who also kindly bought me a glass of wine to go with my excellent dinner. As well I chatted with several other people on both sides of me at the bar.

Chad was my oyster-meister. He shucked them right in front of me and gave detailed explanations of each of the three varieties. These are the best oysters I have every had. They come straight from the dock on which the restaurant is situated. I didn’t even used the sauces, just a squeeze of lemon. Then my steamed lobster arrived and Cory instructed me on the correct procedure for deconstructing and consuming it. This was also the best lobster I have every had. It was truly an outstanding evening, the food, the service and the company. As I had had both a cocktail and wine, it was a good thing that I was walking. I stumbled the half mile back to my hotel and decided the blog would be finished in the morning.

My first stop tomorrow morning is Berlin City Toyota of Portland to replace that pesky inner tie rod.