Kansas City (Art, history and BBQ)

I started the morning with a visit to the Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art . In spite of the fact that this is the main art museum in Kansas City, it was not mentioned in any lists of suggested destinations. I noticed it because it is located a few blocks from my hotel and I kept driving past it. In fact, it is a significant art museum, starting with one of Rodin’s Thinkers gracing the entrance. While it boasts nice collections of both American and International Art, I was mostly interested in two photo exhibits. The museum owns a large permanent collection of photographs. The focus of the current exhibition is street photography . It contained photos of well-known artists including Diane Arbus, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Louis Draper, and others, I suspect this choice was made to complement the special exhibition of photographs by Evelyn Hofer entitled Eyes on the City . Hofer specialized in photographic cities including the people and architecture within them. Her approach was more thoughtful and planned than stereotypical street photography; people were always posed and she used a large format camera, not the more spontaneous 35 mm format. I also popped into the European gallery to see what impressionist paintings were being exhibited. Having viewed works by Monet, Picasso, Miro, Van Gogh and others throughout the country, I am impressed with the sheer volume of work these artists produced.

I then headed over to the John Wornall House to join a tour. Alice knowledgeably guided us through the house and exhibits. The Wornall Family and the house itself were central to Kansas City history. Originally from Kentucky, the Wornall family were early pioneers of Kansas City and Westport. John Wornall’s fortunes initially came from farming, but he eventually parlayed his success into banking, real estate, and politics. He was also known for his philanthropy, both secular and religious.

The Kansas-Nebraska act overturned the Missouri Compromise and allowed new states joining the Union to themselves decide if they were to be slave states or free states. While it was clear that Nebraska would be organized and join as a free state, the Kansas territory was still in dispute. Violence between pro-slavery and abolitionist factions raged at the border of the existing State of Missouri and the Kansas territory . Missouri had been admitted as a slave state and pro-slavery elements hoped to also secure Kansas as a slave state. This conflict was a significant element leading to the Civil War.

The Wornall house, probably the grandest house in Kansas City at that time, lay a mile from the Kansas border. Although John Wornall owned slaves, he was apparently not a Confederate sympathizer and remained neutral throughout the civil war. However, violence still found him, his family and his house . The culmination of the border skirmishes was the Battle of Westport in 1864. The Wornall house served as a makeshift hospital, first for Confederate troops, then, after they retreated by Union troops. Soon after, the family temporarily abandoned the house for another property they held in downtown Kansas City. They did not return until 1874. Kansas entered the Union as a free state in January 1861, barely three months before the Civil War began.

I had decided that I could not leave Kansas City without sampling their famous BBQ. Joe’s Kansas City BBQ (which is actually just over the border in Kansas) was the most highly rated establishment, earning five stars. So I headed over to see if they would live up to the hype. At three in the afternoon, the parking lot was full and the line stretched to the door. I was told that during standard lunch and dinner hours, the line frequently goes out the door and well into the parking lot. However, the place is very well managed. The line moves quickly and, because everything is ready, it just needs to be plated.

While in line I chatted with Kevin and Natalie, originally from Mexico. They had both come about 8 years ago for professional opportunities and had found a new home in Kansas City, MO. Both agreed with my assessment of the city, that it was welcoming and a pleasant place to live. I collected my plate of brisket, coleslaw and fries and set about sampling the food. Having tried BBQ now in several states, I have to give the winning vote to Kansas City BBQ. Joe’s lived up to its five start review.

After returning to my hotel, I decided to take a short walk, both to digest the BBQ, but also to see if anything interesting was happening in the Plaza area. I found Dane playing Jazz Saxophone on a street corner. He is a professional musician, but is still trying to pay off his student loans. I made a contribution and took some photos. He is currently transitioning his website, but you can fine him on Facebook and Instagram . (Dane, if you read this, please give me an e-mail so that I can send you some photos)

This is my last day in Missouri. Tomorrow I drive west to Kansas.