Delicate Arch

Today was all about whether I would actually make it to Delicate Arch . This is the most famous arch in the park, typically photographed at sunrise with the sun peeking through the arch with a sun star. A second option is sunset, but it is not as dramatic a situation. The problem with both of those in the winter, at least for someone who is a bit timid about extreme situations, is the ice on the last 100 feet. This is a narrow path with a steep drop off. It is reasonably treacherous even in the summer, but it is on the shade side, and in the winter it turns into a skating rink. I was told in no uncertain terms by S that I was not to even attempt that stretch in the dark. As she is a far more experienced hiker than me, I thought it prudent to take that advice.

I drove into the park at first light. The Fairfield Inn and Suites in Moab is the most convenient hotel to the park as it is only a mile and a half from the entrance. I had stayed there previously with yet another Art Wolfe workshop , so that was an easy choice. I drove all the way to the end at which the Devil’s garden area resides. It would have taken the whole day to fully explore the 7 miles of trails there, so I took a quick look and filed it for a future visit. By the way, those trails are also completely iced up and require crampons. Which I had, but not the time during this visit.

I drove up and down the main road, stopping for short hikes in to various formations. I stopped for lunch at Panorama Point , where I met Anatolii and Nika from Ukraine. Anatolii has been in the U.S. for several years and works for Lowes to install doors. Nika, Anatolia’s girlfriend, just arrived a couple of weeks ago, along with Anatolii’s mother. Nika was studying to be an English teacher in Ukraine. She will be completing her University studies in Philadelphia, where they are living. She is not yet sure what her concentration will be. I am glad yet another family was able to escape the situation in Ukraine and has found sanctuary in the U.S. Apparently there is a vibrant Ukrainian community in Philadelphia .

I had decided to attempt Delicate Arch in the afternoon as I hoped that the ice would at least be softer. I arrived at the parking lot at the trail head at about 1 PM and was on the trail by 1:15. I spoke to several people coming down and all told the same story. No problem until that last 100 yards, but it was doable. At least that was the story from those who actually made it both up and down. Many of then were in standard hiking boots, and a surprising number in sneakers or even the equivalent of boat shoes (no tread!). I also found out that the dreaded last 100 yards was carved to tilt in to the rock. That actually made me feel a lot better.

Even though the temperature was around freezing when I set off, it was sunny and windless so I quickly warmed up enough to take off my outer down and gloves. The first part of the trail, as advertised, was trivial. Pavement to gravel to flat sandstone. The next part had been described as difficult - a slick rock face at a 60 degree angle. What I found was grippy sandstone with great traction, at more like a 20 degree angle, maybe 30 in a few spots. Perhaps they were measuring from vertical instead of horizontal? Even though we were at about 5000 ft. elevation, I had no trouble with this part and was not even particularly winded. Perhaps because I have been at elevation the last few weeks and have acclimated a bit? Once I saw that the trail had turned to snow and ice and begun to curve around the rock face, I put on my trusty crampons. I was very glad I had them. Even the first part of the snow/ice trail was not difficult. It was really only that last 100 yards that was a bit scary. I have to say I kept my eyes on the ground and did not look at the drop-off. All told, it was about 5 minutes on that stretch to reach the view of the arch.

It was possible to walk down closer to the arch, but I did not need to do that as it would be mostly for a selfie with the arch. The beautiful thing about Arches in winter is that it is practically empty. I encountered maybe 10 people during the half hour or so I remained at the top. And, although the light was not spectacular, it was easily possible to photograph the arch with no people in or around it. After re-traversing the icy patch, the return trip was uneventful. The round trip was less than 3 hours. And now I can say I have hiked to Delicate Arch. And, as my strength instructor, K, is fond of saying, if it was easy, everyone would do it.

Although it looked like a possibility of a bit of a sunset, I was tired enough to watch it from the comfort of the hot tub. I also thought about going back out for a night shoot, but, at least from the hotel, the night sky looked pretty subdued. So, another time.

I have one more day in the area tomorrow.

Additional images can be found in the gallery.