Ashland to Duluth

This morning I drove the short distance around the bottom of Lake Superior to Duluth, MN. The hotel was able to accommodate my request for an early check-in, which was convenient as I had a noon video conference planned with U. and Y., a couple my young relatives from Israel. Since they visited me a couple of years ago, we’ve started a nice tradition of connecting on Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish New Year. We spent a lovely hour catching up.

I then headed out to visit the Glensheen Mansion , reputed to be a destination in Duluth. I thought the entrance fee was a bit steep - the senior rate was $18.00. There was a very short introductory video that just introduced us to the Congdon family and how the mansion was donated to the University of Minnesota before the death of the last living member of the family, Elizabeth Congdon. What was not mentioned or described anywhere (apparently by design) was that she, and her night nurse, were murdered on the premises in 1977. Apparently, the culprit was the second husband of Elizabeth’s adopted daughter, Marjorie, possibly aided and abetted by the daughter herself. He was convicted, the conviction was overturned, then he confessed and committed suicide. Years later, DNA typing was performed on a key piece of evidence and it connected him to the crime. Honestly, that was the most interesting thing about this very wealthy, but otherwise rather unremarkable family.

The mansion itself was finely crafted of outrageously expensive materials, as were the furnishings. In 1908, the home cost a total of $854,000 to build, equivalent to more than $23 million in today’s currency. Personal artifacts, in particular many exquisite 1920s flapper dresses, were displayed on mannequins. While I can appreciate the architecture, interior design and gardens, the family story, other than that they were very wealthy, did not capture my imagination. And while the placards did describe some philanthropic activities, they struck me as insufficient to mitigate the obscene amount of wealth tied up in the mansion and its contents. Especially in the context of all I have learned and experienced on this trip, I left feeling more offended than impressed.

As it was still early, I decided to take a walk around town, grab a drink and treat myself to a dinner out. I walked out to the Lakewalk , which is very well done, and was particularly pleasant in this beautiful Fall weather. I viewed several tasteful art pieces which were commissioned from artists in sister cities of Duluth, and a Korean War memorial and aVietnam War Memorial. At the Vietnam War Memorial I met a veteran (whose name I neglected to ask) who explained the memorial to me. I also noticed a group of observant Jews hanging out down near the water (Modern Orthodox by their accoutrements).

As I was admiring the sculpture garden, both groups - who had apparently met each other - came walking by. I bid the veteran and his companion a good evening and was then surprised when one of the Jewish gentlemen asked if I had heard a Shofar today. Somewhat bemused, I responded that I had not. Michael then asked if I would like to hear a Shofar call. When I responded that, of course, I would love to, he produced a Shofar from somewhere and proceeded to blow the entire Rosh Hashanah set. The link to the video is posted below. When he had finished, I thanked him, bade him Shana Tova (Happy New Year) and then asked him how he know I was Jewish and might appreciate hearing a Rosh Hashanah shofar. Michael said that he heard me offer a holiday greeting to the vet. In fact, all I had said was “have a good evening” .... Although I have given up on organized religious observances, I still appreciate the spirituality. And that encounter - spontaneous, unexpected, out by the lake and just a little too convenient - was a lovely and significant moment.

The rest of my evening was more mundane. I stopped for a short glass of beer at Blacklist Brewing Company (with a name like that, I had to go in) and a couple of slices of really excellent pizza at Pizza Luce , both within a couple of block of my hotel.

Tomorrow I will head up the coast to find some more falls and Fall color.